Grading Up Sewing Patterns

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Grading Up Sewing Patterns

Say if youre a 12 bust 14 waist and 16 hip or a 28 bust 26 waist and 26 hip. How to grade a sewing pattern - YouTube Pattern grading most simply put is the proportional increase or decrease in the size of a pattern.

Pattern Grading Making Magazine Crafts Institute Fashion Sewing Pattern Sewing Basics Sewing Alterations

In short to grade patterns up to a bigger size you have to cut the pattern up at specific points along the body and spread it apart.

Grading up sewing patterns. Grade Rules Grading System - The differences in length width and circumference by which the pattern is scaled up or down. Then shift the pattern outwards by from the bottom right corner edge Trace the rest of the pattern Neaten up the edges and now you have a smaller bodice front pattern. 06022020 Nested Grade - A set of all sizes of the pattern.

21012019 Grading between sizes is crucial if you are a different size at your bust waist andor hip. These are the tools that I use when grading patterns. I dont have to do many alterations to patterns like FBAs and honestly find tracing time consuming especially since I like to try out a lot of patterns.

This is known as slash and spread grading and it looks like the diagram below. 16012016 How to pattern grade. With the Hazel youll notice that the increments between the upper sizes are larger than the smaller ones.

Each brand uses a specific chart of measurements for each pattern. Please send us a message through the contact form below letting us know your measurements. It is important to remember that not because in a clothing store you are always size M means that in all the garments or patterns you are size M.

07072016 This is typical of womens patterns. This is where making a muslin of your graded up pattern will come in. 17092014 The best way to do this would probably be to grade the pattern up in different places like the bodice midriff skirt etc and then blend those lines together to create your new pattern following your shape.

This distributes overall grade among four parts of body or pattern left and right front and left and right back. 21102011 Lay the pattern piece on some pattern paper Im using the bodice front and trace the centre. 06082014 If this is your first time grading I recommend tracing your patterns first and then grading up.

The method that is probably the best for grading up patterns is the slashspread method which I will get around documenting when I work on a vintage 50s dress I have on my sewing list. Divide allocated grade among the cut lines on the pattern piece see illustrations above by following cut lines formula in pattern grading chart on the bottom of this post. Similarly if you overlap all those pieces slightly you get a smaller pattern.

04122014 When I think back to my grandmothers day and even before all patterns were fitted or graded and part of learning to sew involved learning to pre-fit or grade a block pattern to accommadate the body you were sewing for. You cut it vertically to add width which is what I did andor horizontally to add length. 21102020 The 3 things you need to know before Grading Altering Sewing Pattern Sizes 1- Know your measurements.

Grading up a multi-sized Fashion Pattern increasing the size of a commercial sewing pattern from a pattern that already has size line. S Bust S Waist L Hip Grading Path Or lets say you have an XL bust measurement M waist and XL hip. 26012017 Cut and Spread Cut and Overlap The process of manually grading a sewing pattern by cutting the pattern apart and increasing or decreasing its size.

Patterns are stacked to show the perspective of the grading as a whole. Leila will work to grade our patterns up based on the increments currently mapped out. Grading up to 3 size differences is easy and above that is totally possible with the right techniques.

Using your ruler measure the increments between sizes. Grading our patterns up for you. 18082014 You would also need to take into account alterations like a full bust adjustment armscyessleeves etc just as you would do with any pattern.

In that scenario your grading path would look something like this. 22052020 Here is the pattern featured in this post. Advanced Pattern Making Techniques.

It can also be made easier by using a pattern sloper. I rarely trace patterns unless they are vintage. If our current size range of plus-size sewing patterns is too small to include you we will provide a pattern graded up to your size.

These rules are determined by the size chart which. Used to check the accuracy of the grading. Patterns were more how-to-instructions than actual pattern per size peices.

Say your bust and waist both measure a S but your hip measures a L. The big guys such as Burda Vogue McCall Butterick and Simplicity all have evenly graded patterns. 03102019 The simplest explanation of pattern grading is that if you cut a pattern apart and then move all the pieces slightly away from each other you make a sewing pattern bigger.

The indie pattern companies such as Jalie and Silhouette also evenly grade their patterns although some patterns have huge size ranges so they may evenly grade only within a sub-range. This is not so with the Belcarra. Pattern Shifting The process of manually grading by shifting a pattern back and forth to increase or decrease its size.

19062015 Divide overall grade by 4 to get allocated grade.

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